A sample portrait

Maria Delgado

A baker's daughter from San Antonio who grew up to be the pharmacist her neighbours asked first.

Maria grew up above her parents' bakery on the West Side of San Antonio, pressing the shells into the conchas at four in the morning. She was the first in her family to go to college, and opened three pharmacies of her own.

Born 1958 · San Antonio, Texas · A retirement gift from Daniel and Elena

Maria at her kitchen table with a plate of conchas
A chapter from her portrait

The Conchas Aren't Going to Sugar Themselves

From the first of four conversations, on childhood and the bakery.

I worked in the bakery from when I was, oh, eight? Maybe seven. Eight. My father would come in my room at four. Four in the morning. And he wouldn't turn on the light, he'd just stand in the door and say, mija, the conchas aren't going to sugar themselves. Every morning. Same words. And I'd get up and put on my shoes, no socks, and go down the back stairs, and the back of the shop was already hot. He'd been up since two-thirty.

So I got the letter, from UT, in Austin, for the pharmacy school. And I was the first one. Nobody in my family had been to college. My father couldn't read English very well, so I read it to him, in the back, by the ovens. And he didn't say anything. He took the letter, and he folded it, and he went to the front, and he opened the register and lifted up the tray, and he put my letter under the tray. And that's where it stayed. For years. When the bakery closed, my brother cleaned out the register, and the letter was still in there. Yellow. With flour on it.

Oh, but, the fair. HemisFair, downtown. That was the summer of sixty-seven. We went, the four of us, on a Sunday afternoon, which was a very big deal, my father in his good shirt. And there's the Tower, the Tower of the Americas, it was brand new. And my father looked at the price, and he looked up at the Tower, and he said, I can see the whole city from the roof of the bakery. And we did not go up. We went home and he took us up on the roof. You could see the church and the gas station.

Sent in by the family

Their questions, answered

Sofia, her granddaughter, 12, asked
Did you ever get to sleep in?

No, mija. No. I'm retired now, I sold the stores, I have nowhere to be, and I still wake up at four. Every day. My body didn't get the memo. I haven't made conchas in fifty years. But I'm lying there at four and I can hear him. Mija.

Mateo, her grandson, 9, asked
What was the best thing in the bakery?

The marranitos. No question. Tell Mateo, the pigs. Warm, from the tray, when they're still soft. If you came on a Friday afternoon, that's when he made them, you could smell it from the church. I've tried to make them. Many times. They're fine. They're not his.

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Maria, her family, the bakery, the pharmacies and Mr Garza are fictional. San Antonio and HemisFair '68 are real. Every portrait we make is private to the family.